Expresso has scabies. The involved parties have been informed. 
She’s gotten her ivermectin jab. Two more jabs to go. Then wait two weeka before sterilisation. Yes, I know the drill by now. It’s routine. Same thing with mites.
Blueberry’s x-ray doesn’t show anything so that’s good. The lump thingy didn’t show up either. But review in three months time.
On 22nd June 2010, I brought 3 bun-buns to the vet -Tugs, Doughnut & Blueberry.
Tugs isn’t eating nor drinking. Seems to be possible parasites. Didn’t have stuff in the first aid kit for him. *Sighs*
Doughnut’s teeth need trimming. It’s affecting her eating. Worse, she needs to be sedated. If that doesn’t work, she’ll have to undergo GA to get her teeth done. She’s also got sore hocks from all that stamping. Seriously, she needs to be less spoilt. She’s always wanting her way.
Blueberry’s cancer is back. It is in her lung this time. We can only apply treatment to help manage but not cure her. My poor girl… I don’t know how long she’ll live or how fast the cells will spread. X-ray was part of her routine check-up to monitor the situation which has been clear and stable so far. It’s not affecting her yet but it doesn’t mean that it’ll be like that forever.
Some people ask which vet they should go to if their bunny needs to visit a vet. I always tell them to visit a rabbit-savvy vet. It doesn’t matter how much you have to travel but bunnies have special needs that rabbit-savvy vets will know and understand.
There’s an article written about Rabbit-Savvy Vets: The Importance of Having One @
http://www.petschannel.com/article/?a=77.
Most people may not realise it but there is a considerable amount of difference between rabbits with pedigree and registered rabbits. Having ‘papers’ or ‘pedigree certificates’ alone does not guarantee quality of the rabbit. Rabbit breeders use pedigree certificates/papers to record the parentage of the rabbits of a particular or specific breed to show that the particular rabbit is purebred. This usually records 3 generations of the rabbit’s lineage, birthday and ARBA registration numbers and Grand Champion number (if any). In human terms, the pedigree certificate is similar to that of our birth certificates.
A registered rabbit is different. They can also have the pedigree certificate but it also has to meet stringent criteria before it can be registered. Therefore, a pedigree is needed and checked before it can be registered and later, to participate in shows.
What’s all the hype about owning a registered rabbit and what does it mean? Well, there are rules in place as to whether a rabbit can be registered or not. Only rabbits six months or older can be registered and the owner of the rabbit has to be a current member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). The pedigree certificate also comes in play with registration. The pedigree certificate, complete with three-generation pedigree (or lineage) with details of ear numbers, weights and varieties must be presented to the registrar for review. After which, the registrar will take effort to meticulously compare the rabbit to the breed criteria in accordance to “The Standard of Perfection”, not have any disqualifying factors and only upon confirmation that the rabbit meets all the criteria of the breed and variety, will the rabbit be registered. This means to say that the registered rabbit will have met all the requirements for its breed and variety and has no disqualifying factors. It is important to note that any rabbit with disqualifying factors are not allowed to be registered. Hence, registered rabbits have a greater value over unregistered rabbits even though both registered and unregistered rabbits can come with pedigree certificates.
So what happens after the rabbit qualifies for registration? Well, the rabbit is given a registration number which is then added to the rabbit’s pedigree certificate. ARBA will send formal paperwork to certify the registration process. Afterwhich, ARBA compares the information on the registration form to their master database, however, if something does not match, the process is halted and registration is denied.
A seal will be affixed onto each registration certificate. An embossed seal will be affixed if there is only one registered rabbit on the pedigree. A red embossed seal will be affixed if the rabbit and both parents are registered while a red and white and blue seal will be affixed if the rabbit, it’s parents and grandparents are registered. Registration documents are transferable from one owner to another for a nominal fee and the registration will stay with the rabbit even if it is sold to another party. That is to say if ownership change hands, the registration will follow/stay with the rabbit.
Only registered rabbits are allowed to be awarded a Grand Champion certificate (which is can span into another discussion altogether due to different requirements). When looking at the pedigree certificate, the first rabbit listed on will be the one you own. It is common and a standard practice for the rabbit’s name to begin with the rabbitry’s name or the breeder’s name as it is the breeder who created the rabbit. When you buy your rabbit, it can be very tempting to remove the breeder’s or rabbitry’s name on the pedigree and replace it with your own but do bear in mind that the rabbitry’s or breeder’s name on the pedigree certificate does not determine the ownership of the rabbit. The reason why it is on the pedigree certificate is because it rightfully gives credit to the breeder. By removing the name of the breeder or rabbitry, you are taking away the credit of the person who created the rabbit and claiming it for your own (comparable to plagarism in the human world). It is only when you breed your rabbit, that you are rightly able to put your name on your rabbit’s pedigree certificate.
Just like you want your name on the pedigree certificate of the rabbit you bred and created because it is your due credit and you would not want others to remove your name from the pedigree certificate, the same should be done for the rabbit you bought from the breeder. It is important to respect the breeder who created your rabbit, just like how you expect others to do the same.
For the ethical/show breeders, this is about being a reputable showman, promoter and breeder.
Being a breeder is definitely not easy. It is something that has to be studied carefully and breeding has to be done ethically. If you are interested in buying and showing rabbits, you will have to focus on the quality of the rabbits. Also, quality affects the ability to register a rabbit and it will be worth every single effort and registering your rabbit is the epitome of quality.
The below information entails how to read a pedigree certificate.
Rabbitry Information: This is the person or rabbitry who owns the rabbit.
Pedigree of: This is the rabbit of which the pedigree belongs to. This box contains the name of the rabbit, date of birth, tattoo number, original breeder name and owner’s name, ARBA registration number and ARBA grand champion numbers. Below, the rabbit information is broken down into parts.
Rabbit’s Name: Rabbits have two names – the first name would be the rabbitry where he/she was born while the second is his/her call name. Sometimes this is a name while there are times where it is just the ear number. Example: Stardust’s Valient. You may call the rabbit by any nickname that you like, but the name on the pedigree must be used for all your official rabbit paperwork. Such as pedigrees of offspring and ARBA registration application.
Ear number: This number is tattooed in the rabbit’s left ear and identifies the rabbit.
Sex: This field can be left blank you are not able to confirm the gender of the rabbit as the rabbit is too young. You should fill in this field when you are able to confirm the gender of the rabbit.
Type: This is color of Flemish Giant, i.e., Black, Fawn, Blue, White et cetera.
Weight: This is the weight of the rabbit at six months of age. This is needed in order to register rabbits with ARBA.
Original breeder: This is the rabbitry where the rabbit was born and the name of the original breeder should always be listed. You should never replace the name with your own name and your rabbitry name should not be put in if the rabbit was not born in your rabbitry. Rightful credit should be given to the person who bred the rabbit and the rabbitry it was born in. If you are unsure, you can approach the original breeder.
Owner: This is the person who owns the rabbit at this point of time.
Registration number: This number is given to rabbits that are six months old and have no disqualifying faults. You can obtain more information on this from ARBA.
Family tree: The bottom chart shows the rabbit’s ancestors. The father (sire) is list on top and the mother (dam) is listed below. The same rabbit information should be listed for each rabbit, name, tattoo, weight, et cetera.
I admit, it’s been a while since I updated this blog. Am really busy and got caught up with heaps of stuff. :S
So what’s new?
Well, Souffle and Latte got sterilised. YAY~ The procedure was done on 16 March. We’re approaching the 3 week mark soon. Can’t wait seriously. Latte had a little problem because even though the vet used as hypoallergenic materials as possible for the sutures, he still had a reaction which cause inflammation to his left testicle. Under antibiotics and painkillers, it’s not so swollen anymore which is good! 
I had to force feed Souffle for about a day or two because he wasn’t. Apparently, it happens in bigger/fatter rabbits because the anethesia is still in them and it takes time to get out of their system.
Anyhow, Souffle is okay now. Healing nicely. Latte too. Latte is separated from Toffee because he may get her to chew the affected area but they need to be close together, so they’re just separated by a grill. They get to smell each other and see each other everyday.
Latte is eating more and more. I think soon, he’ll go beyond his 2.03kg mark. Oh yes, I also forgot to mention, Souffle is 2.21kg. Wow! Bunny boy is certainly becoming more and more cuddly. Hee!
Tugs is eating pretty well again. He’s actually finished 3 handfuls of pellets during the night. It’s like “wow!” I mean, when he was sick, he didn’t even want to eat the pellets. Now I’ve just got to change him over to oxbow. LOL.
Have to reconsistute the pellets for him over the weekend. Not to mention to order more pellets and to check when the bale of hay is arriving. I still have to clear their cages over the weekend as well. Hee~
Tugs is doing better now. I think he has to learn to eat his hay. Have to reconsitute his pellets for him. I hope he’ll eat it though it may taste different. It’ll be better for his health. Hehe.
Somehow, because I’m busy looking after the rest of them, I’m unable to spend more time with Caramel and she’s not so close to me anymore. 
Hopefully with the rest picking up soon, things will get better.
I’ve got to get a few things. Saline solution and natural tears eye drops for Hugs, Multi-vitamins for all of them, most of all Soufflé. Flaxseed oil for Soufflé as well to help with his coat.
Then next Saturday is Funshine’s turn to go to the vet’s. Gosh. I’m running out of time. LOL. Have so many things to do besides attending to the rabbit household. Hehe
Brought Caramel, Hugs, Soufflé and Tugs to the vet yesterdat. Soufflé and Tugs had diarrhoea. Turns out that Tugs was pretty close to having GI stasis – his guts were in an okay shape but they didn’t have food in them. There was only gurgle heard. Sample of soft poo from the anus showed that Tugs has coccidia. Prognosis is not good and there can be sudden decline if I’m not vigilant. Tugs has to be dewormed as the same goes for Caramel, Hugs and Soufflé because they stay next to each other and play together. Shessh. Funshine’s not allowed to be dewormed because she’s eating meds and having jabs every two days.
Soufflé was clear. He had diarrhoea but didn’t have coccidia.There’s a chance that he can get it too because he’s having diarrhoea but he’s eating well. Many sounds in his guts. Hehe.
Hugs’s eyes keep having fur in them. Got to use saline or natural tears solution to get it out. Just simply removing it or leaving it can cause scratches to the cornea or abrasion and other damage to the cornea. Poor boy!
I spent 1hour and 15minutes at the vet’s. To think I spent 2.5hours at the vet’s last saturday. I feel like I’m a regular visitor there. I seldom go to Namly already though. Because Funshine visited the vet first and I chose AMK because I was going homewards from Yishun. Then one problem after another, so I’m just stuck at AMK. The vets there are good though. Which is something to be happy about. 
They got weighed at the vet’s yesterday. Caramel is now 1.835kg, Hugs is 1.01kg, Soufflé is 2.01kg and Tugs is 1.475kg. Woah. All getting heavier but well, vet says that they’re all a good size and not overweight. Last week, Funshine was weighed and she’s 1.53kg.
Someone said that I didn’t exactly introduce Funshine properly. So here’s her story (but this gives me an idea – do an introductory page for each of them). This is taken from http://bunnysanctuary.wordpress.com/
ANOTHER ABANDONED BUNNY
October 24, 2008, 4:41 pm
Another abandoned bunny is staying at my place. She’s 2ish years old, very sweet and gentle though she is really nervous.
She’s got fur mites and possibly ear mites as well. She’s currently being treated for both type of mites. She’s got a jab today and second jab next week.
At the vet’s, I had to give her a name, so I named her Vanilla but she’s not pure white so I wanna change her name. Probably Pearl or Harmony. Will see what her rescuer says. Her rescuer found her in Ang Mo Kio Avenue 10. I’m just fostering her.
At present, she’s got little gut movement so have to monitor over the next 2-3 hours upon reaching home to see if she will eat. If she doesn’t, I’ll have to call the vet immediately and arrange to get meds for her. I hope she’s eating though.
So far, I’ve given her hay and pellets and water. Fruits and veggies will come a bit later today.
UPDATES ON PEARL
October 30, 2008, 11:57 pm
We (her rescuer and I) have decided to name her Pearl.
That day I brought Pearl home, I monitored her for 3 hours before I had to call the vet, Dr Chionh from The Animal Doctors. Pearl still wasn’t eating.
I was told to go back to the vet’s to pick up critical care (oxbow) powder and metoclopromide syrup. I had to feed Pearl 0.62ml or metoclopromide syrup orally twice a day until eating and defaecating normally because it’s a gut motility agent that will help move her guts and critical care (oxbow) power, mixing 1 part to 3 parts water and give 20mls orally every 4 – 6 hours until eating on her own.
That’s actually quite a lot of effort. Thankfully, Pearl did start to eat on her own. *phew!*
Come tomorrow, 31 October 2008, she’ll need to go for another jab for the fur & ear mites. I’m hoping she’ll be okay soon.
PEARL’S 2ND VISIT TO THE VET
October 31, 2008, 2:21 pm
Today is Pearl’s second visit to the vet. She’s good to let the vet give her the jab. And she’s 1.59kg, up from 1.57kg (because she’s a fussy eater).
Her guts isn’t moving as much as it’s supposed to. Partly because she refuses to eat her hay and only wants pellets. I’m just gradually increasing her veggie intake. Has to be such because if it’s introduced to her too fast, she may get the runs.
Right now, her pee and poo is fine – pelletised poop and yellow pee without any sludge. So gotta get her to eat more hay. Vet says that can give her more pellets though it’s not a very good habit. So we go to our next alternative, give more veggies. She eats the leaves but the stalk remains. What a fusspot.
Pearl has two swollen nipples. That is a concern. She might be pregnant or experiencing a false pregnancy. We’re hoping for the latter. It might be taxing on her to be a mother at this point of time, plus can be stressful too. Also, if there are babies, it might not be healthy ones. It’s hard to say.
Anyway, next Friday, 7 November 2008 is her next appointment. It will be her last jab. Hopefully we’ll see more improvements then.
PEARL’S GOT A NEW HOME!
November 8, 2008, 10:43 pm
It’s official! Pearl’s got a new home!! Yay for her!
Will be taking pictures of her before she leaves. I’m going to miss her though. She’s quite a girl and she’s a good girl! Lovely and gentle as well.
From there, I think the rest is history. I really should find time to dig up her medical bills just to take a look and perhaps, compare prices. I know her total treatment costs in vet bills for mites and the critical care amounted to $100.50 while her sterilisation cost about $130.00 (assuming there’s no other cost for meds e.g. painkillers & critical care) and both costs were borne by the adopter who took her home. Since she’s returned, I’ve paid for her medical bills – the x-ray, medicine and consultation.
Last Thursday, 11 December 2008, Funshine and Soufflé went to the vet.
Soufflé had a sodium test done. This time, they drew out 0.2ml of blood. Previously, for the blood test, it was 0.4ml of blood. His reading for sodium is 136. The normal range based on medical journals is 138 – 150. So his is considered low. Now, it’s not diabetes nor kidney malfunction as both will result in a high level of sodium reading. So both are out. We’re left with stress which didn’t change when we tried changing the environment for him and all that. So that’s sort of out. Since he’s okay, vet says that 600ml should be okay. I think he’s drinking around 600ml to 800ml a day. Guess if nothing happens, it should be okay.
As for Funshine, she went to the vet with a swollen foot. Turns out that the sore hocks resulted in bone infection on her left foot. Now, despite her sore hocks improving, she still had a bone infection. Maybe I should have brought her to the vet earlier. Because we went to the Singapore Botanic Garden, and her foot got caught in between the planks of the benches, it could be the trauma that caused the fracture. Or, the fracture could also be caused by the bone infection. Vet cannot tell which was it that caused the fracture but because it’s a stable fracture and Funshine’s foot is not out of place, there isn’t a need for her to put on a cast that sort of thing.
In the meantime, she’s given antibiotics for the infection and painkillers to cope with the pain. She’s lost weight. When JadeyVCL passed her to me, she was weighed at the vet at 1.57kg. Second visit to the vet at 1.59kg, third visit at 1.7kg. I’m not sure how much she weighed before spaying but she didn’t seem to have lost any weight.
However, since the SBG photoshoot, she’s picking at her food. I hope she does make more of an effort to eat. When we weighed her last week at the vet’s she is just 1.5kg. Poor girl. I hope she continues to eat more though. I cannot afford for her to go into GI stasis. It’ll probably be really tough on her then. Hope that things are looking up for her. Will be posting up the pictures of them at the SBG soon!
